HE'S MADE IT!!!! Jake Meyer's Everest attempt [updated 11th July 2005]
It's official - he's made it - and safely down!
EverestNews.com #1 &
#2,
Sunday Times,
MountEverest.net,
Guardian Unlimited,
BBCi,
Mirror.co.uk,
Daily Record,
Telegraph,
Di's Sunday Times interview.
• READ THE FINAL UPDATE #18 HERE!
Original intro text left for posterity; The photos are of Jake getting some final preparation in for his forthcoming expedition. The team at Ellis Brigham would like to wish him the very best of luck in successfully completing his world record attempt. Jake (aged 21) is on track to becoming the youngest Briton to climb Everest (Chomolungma), and also the youngest person in the world to complete the ‘7 Summits’.
A member of Ellis Brigham's Kensington Store, Jake has completed 6 of
the 7 summits, and leaves on the 2nd of April for his last: Everest (around
8,850m/29,035ft). He is attempting the famous North Ridge, a harder route
than the usual South Col route. Success will guarantee him a place in
the record and the history books, not only for the youngest British ascent
of Everest, but the youngest person to complete the challenge of the 7
Summits. Jake is climbing Everest in aid of the Children's Wish Foundation.
Jake has been mountaineering for 6 years, and has already achieved a number of records, including; Youngest ascent of Mt Vinson (the highest mountain in the Antarctic), where he experienced temperatures of up to -70°C, and saved a fellow climber's life when he fell down a crevasse. Youngest solo ascent of Aconcagua (in Argentina, the highest mountain outside the Himalayas), aged 18. Fastest British ascent of McKinley/Denali of 2003 (the highest mountain in North America, and famed as being the coldest mountain in the world). He took 11 days rather than the usual 23. Jake has worked with Ellis Brigham since 2002, and he has climbed 4 of the mountains with our help and support. We are sponsoring his Everest attempt and supplying vital equipment and clothing for the trip.
More general info; everestnews.com , 7summits.com , mounteverest.net & adventurepeaks.com
"Straight from Jake" - latest email updates from the expedition (please excuse the typo's!) » » »
READ THE FINAL UPDATE #18 HERE!
SUMMIT DAY - from Jake's Dad
So he has made it. What an achievement - what a proud father am I!
Jake telephoned me at 7.00 this morning. He confirmed that all four of
them - Jake, Di and their two guides, Mingma Nuru Sherpa and Anil Bhattarai,
had made it up and back to their top camp where, as he put it "we
are stuffing our faces with fudge and drinking gallons of tea."
He also revealed how difficult it had been - "If I had know how difficult
it was going to be I probably would not have done it. The final two steps
(cliffs) up to the top were technically extreme - climbing a near-sheer
rock-face with crampons, heavy packs and oxygen was hell. As the sun rose
our goggles started to mist up as well." On the way he came across
the gruesome site of two bodies at the top - one was old "I saw a
pair of boots in the snow and I thought "how odd that someone would
leave their boots up here"....then I saw that there were legs attached!"
The other was only a few days old - it was the Latvian (I think) who had
died on the top: " I had met him at ABC - it was very sobering to
know that this was someone whom I had met and who was not going to be
coming back down with us" - at this point he paused a bit in thought.
Jake had also telephoned his mother from the summit " I had a quivering
lip when I spoke to you, dad - when I spoke to mum we both just burst
into tears"
Plan is that they were resting for a short time at 8300 then descending
on down to 7800m for the night. Then tomorrow (Sunday), they will carry
on down to ABC from where I hope he will rest more and email us a full
and proper report. I may even get some photos by then! The most important
thing though is that they are safely on their way back down. The first
part of the descent is the most difficult and I trust that as I write
this they are all fast asleep at 7800m
Thank you all for all of your support. I do not think he could have done
this without the friends he has and I am so grateful to you all for this.
He may not have achieved the youngest 7-summits (20 year old Danielle
Fisher, from America, pipped him at the post by summiting from the South
Side on Wednesday) but he is the youngest Briton to do Everest and the
7 summits and that in itself is more than adequate.
EVEREST NEWSFLASH!!! - BREAKING NEWS - @ 1.15AM UK TIME FROM JAKE'S DAD
Just got the call from Jake: HE'S MADE IT!!!
Jake Meyer and Di Gilbert have made it to the top of the world. He rang
me whilst he was waiting for Di and Mingma to join him whilst standing
on the top. All the waiting is over and he is thrilled to bits.
A very tired Jake said "We've done it, Dad. I am standing at the
top. The weather is fantastic and I can see the whole world below me.
This is simply the best"
The sad news is that Ran Feinnes had to turn back, but all is well with
our team so far. Now comes the tricky moment: they have to get down to
safety. The addage is "Take the photos and get out of there as quickly
as possible" and I am expecting a call later today when they have
reached camp. They are hoping to get down to 7,800 today and then back
to ABC tomorrow - however, if the weather does close in they will stop
at the top camp (8,300m).
Please pass the word to everyone, and thank you from all of us for all
of your support. All our prayers have been answered. THANK YOU!
NEWSFLASH: by text from Hugh Meyer
1.15 am uk time, JAKE IS ON TOP OF THE WORLD!!!!!HE'S MADE!!!!!YEAHHHHHH!!!!
NEWSFLASH: 11.30am London from Hugh Meyer
I have just received a telephone call from Jake (!!!!!!!):
He is at 8,300m safe and sound and is in flying form. He sounded so excited
at having got so far (a personal record for him) and cannot wait for the
BIG PUSH. I asked Jake about the oxygen - he said that sitting in the
tent is is not too bad (although he did seem a little out of breath).
However, even going for a walk outside you have to have the oxygen otherwise
it is totally impossible - unless (and I quote) "you are Mingma who
is superhuman (the bastard)"
Plan is that he, Di and Mingma will rest up for about 6 hours - (huddled
along with their other sherpa (cook) in a single tent). During this time
they will try to get as much rest and eat as much as possible and drink
as much tea as possible to make sure they are totally stocked up with
energy and fluids.
At about 10.30 pm their time (about 4pm our time) they will set off up
to the top. This is very tough, even on oxygen, but they hope to get there
at about 6.30-7.00am thair time (say around midnight-1pm our time).
This is it folks. Keep your fingers crossed - I will email you as soon
as I have some more news, but in the meantime please have a quiet chat
with your God for Jake, Di and Mingma.
Summit push is under way, heading for a summit on the 4th June!
Day 62 (June 2nd)
Good progress has been made today and we are pleased to confirm Jake and Di have been able to reach Camp 2 at 7800m despite high winds. This was an important day, they had to progress up the North Ridge in strong winds to enable a summit bid to be made on the 4th June when the winds are forecast to decrease. Tomorrow, Friday will see their first day on oxygen. For most people the first two hours of using the oxygen and wearing the mask is psychologicaly the most difficult as you struggle getting your breathing in on a regular basis, quite often you see people ripping the mask away thinking they can do it better without........it soon gets put back on. It is also difficult to see your feet past the mask.
Provided they can stick with it, they will get into a rythm, so wearing it from 7800m - 8300m is a valuable day of practice for the summit day. We hope tomorrows news at around 3pm will be that they have reached top camp at 8300m, the summit push would start around midnight (their time).
I will email you more news as I get it - HUGH
Subject: Everest2005 310505 #17
Date: Tue, 31 May 2005 09:49:24 +0100
Day 60 (!)
3, 2, 1, THUNDERBIRDS ARE GO!!!
It's the final countdown; Da da da daaa, da da d d daaa! (Don’t even pretend that you don't know that that was Europe...!)
Tomorrow, we leave the luxury of ABC to commence our final assault on this mole hill that we see before us. In true Jake and Di style, we are going for the last day of the last window. Nothing like keeping you all in suspense. I imagine that you are all so near to the edge of your seats that several of you have fallen off. Well, dust yourselves off and keep reading.
Having said that, we may have just had major team dynamics failure, as Di has accused me of conning her into eating a 'Bassets Murray Mint', under the premise that it had a 'soft centre'. She now has had most of a packet of Basset's Mint favourites in mouth in her search for the allusive 'soft centred' mint favourite. It is lucky that we are typing and not dictating these dispatches, as our teeth are all stuck together! She has come to the conclusion that it is the 'Murray BUTTER mint' that has the aforementioned supple core. As with all scientific tests, she has ensured that it is fair, by constant repetition of the experiment. Oh, dear, there I go again, I've come to a fork in the narrative, and as usual gone on off on the wrong literary tangent from which you wanted to read about. Ummmm, maybe I should write for the News of the Screws when I return!
Well, before I express how excited we are that it is time (my feet are so itchy I feel like I'm standing on an ants nest!), let me lead you through the tedious journey that was the last few days.
Day 57 (28th May)
The morning routine has now happily settled into; wake up at 6am. Put
sun cream on. Open the door of my tent so that I can bask for 3 hours
in the morning sun till breakfast. Boring day. Although I nearly forgot
to tell you about Mighty Maurice the Mountain Mouse our really resilient
resident rodent who lives in our mess tent and regularly survives Surendra's
salacious saucepan slaughter attempts. An ample and adequate amount of
alliteration, I think! Anyway, he's rather nice, looks like a hamster
but the size of a guinea pig, and he scuttles around the floor whenever
we are quiet. Not at all like those rascal rats we encountered in Nylam.
Day 58 (29th May)
Another day of not doing very much; sunbathing when the weather allows,
building snowmen the rest of the time. Abusing J/G hospitality as usual;
eating all of their Quality Street. Endless games of cards/Minesweeper.
Day 59 (30th May)
This morning was a potential leave date, if we wanted to summit on the
2nd of June; the supposed start of this last weather window. So I was
up early packing my gear and clearing up my tent, all ready for the off.
Di got the weather at about 6.45am, and we realised that the end of the window (3rd/4th) was going to be clear, whereas the 1st and 2nd had pretty high winds. Well, no point summiting in high winds when we could have a perfectly still day. Meanwhile, lots of excitement in the Indian Camp next to us their second team had summited (none of the first had made it).
We went up to Russell Brice's team at the top of ABC to look through their telescope at people summiting. It was amazing, you could very clearly see about 10 people on the summit pyramid. You could clearly pick out the colours of their clothing, what they were doing; crouching down changing an oxygen bottle or clipping onto the fixed ropes for the return journey. So, having watched the excitement unfold on top we wandered back to our camp to settle into our own exciting day.
Ha ha, the perils of sunbathing without enough sun cream! This morning has been literarily sundrenched, and like the sun-deprived fiends that we are, we have spent every available minute basking like a couple of lethargic lizards on the rocks around camp. Now, whilst I regularly applied the factor 35 and am now a wonderful brown, Di failed to keep her self topped up (either that, or her factor '60' came from a market stall in Camden!) and has now assumed the looks of a panda (and a red panda at that!)! Take your pick; 'Bronzed Adonis' or a rather crimson endangered mammal with a fondness for bamboo.
In her defence, Di has now regained the beginner and intermediate high scores at Minesweeper. I suppose she had to do something in her tent that afternoon whilst she was still gently smouldering! Meanwhile, 'Salon Jake' had another happy customer after quite a long quiet period; Kari Kobler's Sirdar ('French' Pemba) now has a very fetching blonde goatee and highlights.
This afternoon, in an effort to remind us of its fickle nature; it snowed. T-shirts to Down jackets before you can ask 'who's responsible for that Yak who just left a steamy heapy in front of my tent?' Talking of Yaks (and their 'steamy heapies'); we had the pleasure of their company (about 50 of them) and their even less hygienically concerned herders for the night. Not only are they extremely light-fingered (the herders that is; the Yaks are in fact incredibly high-moraled creatures), they had effectively built a blockade between us and our toilet tent with their tents and carefully positioned beasts. At that point Jake regretted not having 'been' in the morning, and spent a rather uncomfortable night! This was not helped by the noise of the Yaks (or more precisely the bells round their necks) making us feel as though we were spending our night in the bell tower of Notre Dame. I think that even Quasimodo would have shared our exasperation.
Oh yes, Jagged Globe left this morning, so we've no one to play with
at the moment. Having said that, just as I was about to go to bed (at
the oh so late hour of 7pm) Julian turned up in his down suit, fresh from
the summit. He had gone from 7900m to the summit and back to ABC in one
push. Wow! The really impressive part is that he had managed to get all
the way down from the summit back to ABC (it took him 12 hours!). He also
confirmed that Tim (British KE) had summited with wo
of his team (Stuart and Ian). This was all fantastic news, as Tim and
Julian were two of our really good friends and members of the
'Adventure Peaks Afternoon Cheese and Gossip Club'! We went to bed that
night under the 'threat' that if it was nice in the morning, we would
go for it, and try for the summit on the third.
As you can probably work out, it wasn't nice the next morning (this morning), so we will leave tomorrow (finally). Not only is this a relief for us, it means that Mingma is less likely to mutiny and run away! He was becoming a little frustrated with our constant stalling due to the weather, especially as he saw his friends summiting with other groups over the last few days.
As I said, this is a last ditch effort before the monsoon new season comes in (that is the big scary summer snows rather than the clothes shop's summer range!). All or nothing, the be-all and end-all, all of our eggs are in one last icy basket... and whatever other clichés I can think of to convey the importance of this attempt. If we don't make it, no more chances this year, these two months will have been for nothing. It's like Custer's Last Stand or the Alamo, or the Charge of the Light Brigade. Actually those aren’t such good examples, as the goodies all died. Errrm, maybe it's like putting that last defaulting mortgage repayment on the blind horse with three legs; it's a long shot, but muchos big payout if he comes in! Lets hope that this one is pumped on oats and steroids! Don't worry Mum; I'm still referring to the equine analogy, you know I would never touch performance enhancing oats.
Right, so hopefully we will be updating you with news (good or bad) on Sunday or Monday. Tomorrow, we march: Union Jack held high, singing about roses and thistles, into the Stratosphere. Rahh!
Here is a rundown of the next few days;
1st June (Wednesday): Leave ABC (6400m) early to make a good start on the fixed ropes up to the North Col (7100m). It shouldn't take us more than about 4 hours, but the earlier we can get up their, the more time we have to relax and prepare.
2nd June (Thursday): Leave North Col early (6am) to
get as good a start as possible up towards Camp 2 (7500m). This involves
crossing the Col and then climbing a very long and debilitating snow slope
up to the next camp. It is very unprotected, and subject to ferocious
crosswinds. Last time we tried to get to Camp 2, we only got as far as
7300m before the weather forced us to turn back. At Camp 2 we will pick
up 1 4-litre bottle of Oxygen each (we are not staying in this camp) and
then using this oxygen (low flow rate) we will continue up to camp 3 (7800m).
From Camp 2 to Camp 3 we will have left the snow slopes and now be on
rock (for pretty much all the way to the top, bar the summit pyramid).
At Camp 3 we will be met by Mingma and Aneil (who will have come all the
way from ABC). From this point on the 4 of us will be using 1 three man
tent (cozy!). We will probably be walking for 8 or 9 hours today. We will
also be sleeping on oxygen
3rd June (Friday): Although it is steep, it shouldn't take us too long
to get to Camp 4 (8300m), maybe about 4-5 hours. This is the highest camp
in the world (top camp on the other side is usually around 7900m!), and
it will be where we mount our summit bid from. That afternoon and evening
will be spent trying to massively hydrate and if ideally eat as much as
possible (although most people are unable to eat at this altitude). We
will try and nap for a few hours before we get ready and leave the tent
at around 10pm. The summit attempt starts early in order to give us the
best possible chances of summiting early. Apparently nearly a third of
climbers turn around in the first half hour, unable to cope with the wind,
cold and dark. We will now be on lighter 3 litre bottles of oxygen (2.7kg
each and contain 750 litres of compressed O2), and use about 3 during
our attempt. We will follow the fixed ropes that have been placed for
our safety that run to the summit. We will be on a flow rate of about
2 litres a minute, which will be turned up to 4 litres a minute for the
harder sections, such as the 2nd Step (a 10m vertical rock band, which
at the moment has a climber hanging off it who died last week).
4th June (Saturday) So we will continue up through the night and hopefully
arrive near the summit pyramid just as it is getting dark.
The summit pyramid is a 100m high snow slope that leads up to the summit.
The forecast for the day is about 8m/s but with clear skies and -22C
(+wind-chill factor). Depending on how cold we feel (and how much we want
to go back!) we will spend anything from 5 mins to 45 mins on the summit.
That should be at around 7am (about 2am UK time). We will then return
back as far down the mountain as possible. For us it will probably be
to 7800m (camp 3), but further if we can manage it.
Yesterday, our friend Julian, who summited at 6am got back down into ABC
(completely knackered) at 7.30pm. It completely depends on how much reserves
you have left after you summit. Unfortunately, as has been proved several
times this year already (including another yesterday), some don't even
have the strength to get back to the high camp.
Anyway, all things being good, go to sleep with your fingers and toes crossed on Friday night. If we are successful, we will call Dave Pritt at Adventure Peaks who will put it on the website (Adventurepeaks.com) early on Saturday morning, and my Father who will hopefully email all of you with the news as well. We will send you all emails as soon as we get back to the computer on Sunday.
Well, let’s hope that it all goes according to plan and thank you for all of you support over the last 2 months. I look forward to hopefully bringing you good news in about 5 days time.
From Jake Julian Barrington Meyer Esq. (no tittering at the back thank you) and Diahanne 'where's my soft centre' Gilbert (Yeah, computer won't believe that that's not a typo either!). Your loyal and dedicated soldiers on a mountainous mission, reporting from the front line on the eve of the final assault. (Whistle sound) Right chaps, over the top, and let's give Bosche what for...
...To be continued.
Everest Update # 16
Day 56 (27th May)
N.B. We have be unable to receive emails since 22nd May, but (obviously) we can still send. This is mainly due to the fact that a 51kbyte email from my father (most are only 3 or 4 kbytes!) has clogged up the server, and I have had to receive it 4 times. This has now nearly doubled the cost of the expedition in Satellite Phone charges! However, fret ye not! We will be able to receive at some point (probably Kathmandu), so keep sending.
In the meantime, we are planning to make our way up the mountain on Monday (30th May). Our plan, subject to the usual weather challenges, will be to summit somewhere around the 2nd/3rd June – so watch this space!!!
Right, now onto the 'interesting' stuff.
'The Phantom ABC Thief'
WARNING: This passage contains explicit toilet humour. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!
Members of expeditions have been asked to keep vigilant, as a number of
'poo barrels' have been going missing. Several climbers have been going
for their early morning evacuations and finding themselves 'barreless'!
Obviously this has been the cause of great embarrassment, not to mention
discomfort. As it turns out the prime suspects are the local Yak herders,
rather than any expedition members with secret agendas. Apparently these
barrels are in high demand by the indigenous people for brewing 'Chang'
in; the local alcoholic beverage. It makes you wonder if the natives allude
to all of the infused ingredients when serving said drink! For all we
know, a dash of diarrhoea, or a pinch of poo might be just what the locals
use to give Chang its allusive aftertaste and potency, not to mention
vital for the fermentation process. I will have this in mind next time
I am swilling a nip of this around my mouth and straining it through my
teeth. Right I think I am now actually going to be sick. Remind me never
to go around minesweeping at a Tibetan party; cigarette butts wouldn't
be your only worry! Apologies if you were eating or (especially) drinking
whilst reading that crime report.
So, what else happened over the last few days since Di disappeared up the hill?
Day 53 (24th May)
The nice thing about the early hours before breakfast (6-9am) is that once the sun hits the tent, is that the incessant shivering of the night is replace by a languid content dozing in the sun's revitalizing warmth. The only problem is as the weather god turns up the gas mark on the mountainside oven, the tent gradually changes from pleasant conservatory to scorching kiln, and you are forced to emerge from your drenched sleeping-bag which unfortunately unleashes 14 hours of insidious aromas! Anyhow, this one morning, I was gently snoozing; minding my own business and waiting for my tent to reach boiling-point, when I was rudely disturbed by the (rather uncouth) 'Wakey wakey, I'm back, time to play!'
'Oh God', I thought to myself 'The Mountain Mischief has returned.
What the hell was she doing back down from the North Col at this ungodly hour? It isn't even 8am for Christsakes! Well, now that my lie-in has been well and truly written off, I might as well go and entertain her.'
Dressed still in my Jim-Jams, I staggered over to the mess tent, where Di was in the process of wrenching off her boots. 'Morning' she said. 'Barely' I thought. I grunted some reply, and then asked her how her night at the North Col had been.
This is her adventure: Di - "mmm, not quite sure that I can compete with Jakes big words and fancy paragraphs.... So, it'll just be plain di talk. It's very hard to stay motivated for every day of an expedition, especially when the expedition is as long as a long thing. The day that Jake spent the evening on the North Col, and I only got as far as the fixed ropes, I couldn't have been any more unmotivated if I tried - I think part of the problem was that I had already spent 2 nights at the col and had no problems sleeping. I do have a handy knack of being able to sleep anywhere. However, walking through the moraine back to ABC I had a bit of a guilt trip and thought that since it has been so long since I've been up to 7000m it could do me no harm but to return.
The previous evening I had mentioned that I might leave early so if I wasn't there in the morning not to worry. As Jake has already mentioned, once the sun hits the tent in the morning it is very hard to sleep in a -40 bag, combined with the fact that we are getting potentially 11 hours sleep each evening it is very hard to lie in.
So, at 0637 I woke to the familiar phlemming sounds of my next down neighbour and thought no time like the present. I managed to get out of our camp just after 0700 and starting the familiar route up the north col. It's amazing how many people are up and about at that time - think it has something to do with being a good time to take photos due to the low light.
Anyway, I hated it - the first 40 minutes up the moraine is anything but pleasant and if anyone says different they're lying. However, as soon as you put on crampons and hear the familiar sound of the glacier crunching underfoot it becomes a more familiar place to be. I soon reached the fixed rope and, trying a different technique, started moving up the headwall.
Every now and then, we have moments. You can't describe them. I had one of those moments and it lasted all the way up to the familiar sight of the first tents situated on the north col. I'm not going to describe it, or even try to. It was a di moment and one that will drive both of us to the summit - if she'll let us.
On reaching the col, much socializing took place before I managed to located our tent and relax.
If it is a furnace at ABC, it is a furnace in a furnace at the north Col when the sun is out. With both Jakes sleeping bag and Mingma's sleeping bag, it was going to be a warm night. The beauty about getting to col before lunch is that you have the rest of the day to chill out (or heat out as the case may be) and watch the world go by.
The Chinese had summited the previous day and there was much activity next door as tents were being dismantled and the mountainside been cleared. Anyway, things started to quiet down and it was time to get a brew on.
Meanwhile, next door I was aware of a Sherpa arriving at a lone tent and collapsing in a heap obviously exhausted. I let him be for a while and then shouted over "tatopani di?", which means "water brother?" (I could digress here and explain that di in Nepali means brother and hence the reason that all the sherpa's look at me funny when I tell them my name. Dee-Dee is sister so I always end up getting called Dee-Dee Di.) Anyway, to cut a long story short, Phurba, from Thame near Namche Bazaar, who not only was pretty knackered but had the beginnings of snow blindness, and I spent the next couple of hours blethering away and drinking lots of hot tang. Once we had gone our separate ways ie he staggered the 5 metres to his tent, I settled down for the night.
It is a very special place, the north col, and as much as I love having Jake for company, just sometimes, it's nice to be alone. I suppose I had another moment and I felt very privileged to be scuttling around 7000m with all but my thermals and inner boots on taking photos. Only one other exciting thing happened that night and that was that there was a Chinese Tibetan porter who was in difficulty high on the mountain and I had to lend my oxygen regulator to a Sherpa who was going up the mountain to help him down.
Anyway, a peaceful sleep was had and with no surprise with another 12434787 hours sleep that night it was hardly surprising that I woke up early, tidied the tent and decided that a cheese omelette was so much more appealing than a cereal bar for breakfast. So, off I tootled back down the fixed ropes knowing that the next time I would ascend them it would be for the summit."
Wow, much more exciting than Aneil's and my night! She's a veritable Florence Nightingale (and my hero)!
Day 54 (25th May)
Weather weather weather! 'Rain rain go away, come again another day'. Or whatever the mountain equivalent is! Everyday seems like the weather windows change, and we have to reassess our summit bid. The most annoying days are those which were forecasted as being bad, yet we sit in the glorious sunshine in ABC hearing about and sometime even being able to watch climbers making successful summit attempts. Very frustrating as you can imagine!
We get Swiss reports from the land of Yodeling, so you would expect them to be able to analyze and evaluate mountain weather. Actually, on a whole they have been pretty good, and we compare them to free weather reports from the net sent in by Karl (our very own STAR news and weather man!). We then often go on covert operations to see if we can beat weather reports out of other teams; again to compare and contrast. ABC is a very secretive place, obviously with all the teams vying for the best weather slots, so tit-bits of information are exchanged as if they are national secrets.
Anyway today's news was that Di was abducted by the Indian Airforce Team (our next door neighbours). I think at first they thought that they had captured a Kashmiri rebel; although I've never seen one with blond pigtails, have you? So, I circled the wagons and reluctantly went to her rescue. Actually, we had a great time, comparing the differences between our two countries/mountains etc. After several hours we managed to extract ourselves and continued up to our original destination, J/G (as usual!). In terms of the Indians, it was their first time on Everest (the Army go nearly every year), and I have never met a more hospitable generous team. In fact every time we walk past their mess tent there are shouts of; 'Di, Jake, come in!'
Anyway, we had heard on the grapevine that J/G were expecting a 'delivery' from BC. Ha ha; they had (in fact it was Torres who had just come up that morning). There lying in the corner of their tent (or as near to the corner as a round tent has!) was a crate of Budweiser! Bathed in sunlight, this 'king of beers' was on the throne that it deserved. Dave very kindly offered us a beer, and we took them with much gratitude and salutations! Ran was due to give a live interview to BBC Breakfast on Friday, so he and Ian were out trying to do a practice run.
Ran was sitting very patiently whilst Ian tangled himself up in wires and tried to get someone in London to tell him what to do. It turned out that in its infinite wisdom the BBC had supplied him with equipment that was probably already out of date by the '53 ascent, to the point where one of the (huge) batteries said; 'WORKING TEMPERATURE; +50>+5 C'. Honestly! So with Ian practically in tear of frustrations, and Ran just sighing patiently a lot (I guess he's probably used to these 'technical hitches') they returned to the tent unsuccessful (and with Ian cursing the BBC!). Nevertheless they did manage a triumphant practice the following day (and a very successful interview on the Friday)
Day 55 (26th May)
Today we have reasserted ourselves as King and Queen of Everest Socialites (rather than socialists).
This morning we went up to the high end of ABC to see Tim from the British KE team. They are moving up the mountain tomorrow, so, throwing caution to the wind, he brought out a stash of goodies he had been saving (or was it just not sharing with the others?!), and we had a rather over indulgent elevenses. Haribo, the last packet of their sponsored beef jerky, Lindt chocolate and Pink Grapefruit Tang. Yum Yum!
The problem with eating with Tim is that it is hard to chew when you are laughing so much (at him and his stories!). I hadn't expected that laughter induced choking would be such a hazard on Everest, but with Tim's wildly gesticulated anecdotes and tales; it was nearly the end of us! Eventually, we managed to escape, with our sides aching, our jaws stuck together with Jelly Bears and on some kind of outrageous sugar high, and bounced back down to our camp.
After lunch, Tim came down to us (to raid our cheese and cracker supplies) and no sooner had he exploded a chunk of crumbly stilton over himself (some even went in his mouth!), Julian (obviously attracted to the dairy products like a bloodhound) from Project Himalaya arrived. This little gathering turned into a little Teddy Bear's picnic, and out came the café lattés, the Maryland Choc-chip cookies and the Smoked Edam. Julian was also going up the mountain the next day as well, so it felt like a bit of a farewell party.
When they had both left we went up to the J/G tent. They are in a huge luxury Mountain Hardwear Space Station tent, however the black awning that they have over the top make it freezing inside, and thus everyone is either crowded round the heater or wearing their down jackets. We spent about and hour and a half in there exercising our jaws and drinking (tea, not alcohol). A 6pm we hurried back to our camp for supper, and then believe it or not, returned back to J/G after supper! There was a bottle of whiskey floating around, but it was Jamiesons so Di only had the one dram! I of course declined; only the finest Regimental Port for me!
Day 56 (27th May)
Today has been a lazy day (surprise surprise!) In fact, Di and I have only emerged from our tents for meals. 'What have you been doing in your tents all alone for all that time?' I hear you ask. Well, Di has been snoozing and reading her book. I finished my book, and then worked out that due to the (east/west) direction my tent is aligned, with doors and flaps open I can wriggle myself into a position where I can sunbathe with protection from the Baltic assault of the katabatic winds. 'Fabulous Darling, just like St Trop.!' I think as once again the sun destroys my epidermis and threatens to turn me the colour of a Number 52 (At least I'll match my Down Suit!). Oh, and yet again I unfalteringly devote several hours to the interminable task of giving an overly long winded SitRep of our latest mountainous series of adventures. So I hope that you haven't been speed reading this in your coffee break. It deserves at least half an hour of inward digestion (and probable highlighting of the important facts) during a time that you feel that your concentration levels are at a high (i.e. not during Neighbours).
As a recompense for my enthusiastic electronic rantings, I scoffed two Dairy Milks whilst I was writing this in my tent. Well, I think that I am entitled to a small reward every so often! We have come to the conclusion that although most people lose weight when climbing (ultimate crash diet girls!), Di has to challenge convention but putting it on. Not only does she have to undo her trousers after supper (or the eighth biscuit!) - (now come on Jake, I only had to undo them once :)), the other day I was happily minding my own business reading when suddenly there was this 'pop' and her trouser button flew across the room like a tennis ball from a Philippoussis serve! I thought that this was Everest, not Beirut. In true courageous fashion (and considering my military training) I dived for cover and hid under the table.
Di - Now I am led to believe that one of the keys to success on big mountains is the ability to maintain a healthy diet and keep churning the calories in. I'm quite sure the 4 day diet starvation foray onto the big mountain for the last time will trim me down - and if that fails, the final stay in KTM will finish me off.
Anyway, it is now time for Di to add her 6 pence worth of additions and editing. That probably means that this will be halved in length or even worse (di - little does he know ha ha ha). She's a modern day Yossarian of Censurers and you're lucky she doesn’t cross the whole thing out and just put; 'Mary, I yearn for you as always, yours ever R. Shipman'. (Apologies to Heller if misquoted).
So with that fantastically obscure literary ending, 'That's all Folks!'
From Wing Commander J.J.B. Meyer, Defender of the Faith and all round thoroughly Splendid Chap, and his idol; Her Majesty Dee Dee Gilbert, Queen of All, and Beautiful Belay Babe (and ex-member of the Ramones!).
(Di - oh dear jake, one thinks that you've been in the mountains too long. You're gonna wonder what's hit you when you return to the Lizard Lounge and see all that posh totty floating around!)
(Jake - you have obviously got to know me too well! That will be gobbeldy-gook for anyone who's not from Bristol!)
Everest update 15 - Tuesday May 24th 2005
Day 52 'The Waiting Game'
I like games; Monopoly, Buckaroo, Kiss-chase and even Boggle, however there is one game that I am getting a little tired of. The Waiting Game has lost its novelty and just isn't any fun anymore. (Whoever invented it probably also invented that interminable Saturday night trash: 'The Generation Game'!) However much I might have enjoyed rest days, you can have too much of a 'good' thing (I assure you!). Especially as some nit-wit left the DVDs down in BC (Oh, that was me, I'm afraid!).
I am now reading Bill Bryson's 'A Short History of Nearly Everything' for the third time. I can now instantly recite incredibly useless facts off the top of my head, and every time I do, Di either groans or just looks at me blankly. We are both becoming gurus at Minesweeper on the computer (I got the best score today at intermediate with an unbeatable 157 seconds; so better that Di! Ha ha, vengeance IS mine!). So if all else fails and we return to the UK with our tails between our legs, the Royal Engineers will have two new hot shot electronic Sappers at least!
In fact, it has become such a drag doing sweet FA in ABC that we have both taken to randomly walking up the hill...separately...read on!
So, let me fill you in on all our excitements over the last few days (somebody please put me out of my misery!)
Day 48 (19th May)
Today not much happened. At all. We planned that tomorrow we would go to the North Col.
The end.
Whoopee! (If only getting though the day was as easy as writing that kind of a report!)
Day 49 (20th May)
Up at 8am, but to our horror (and my secret hope!) it was incredibly cloudy. You couldn't even see the tents at the far edge of ABC, let alone the North Col. So with 'bitter disappointment' we called off the day's exercise, and went back to the warmth and comfort of our sleeping bags! For the rest of the day we spent most of the time trying to better each other at 'minesweeper' on the computer, or reading in our tents.
Unfortunately Di had beaten my score of 279 seconds by 10 seconds. A fact that she wouldn't let me forget for several days! However, vengeance will be mine (evil cackling, and imaginary lightning!) sooner or later!
Our evenings are getting quite interesting now that we don't have the distraction of the DVDs (although don't let my mother hear that, I'll never be allowed to watch TV again!). After we have all had our supper, Aneil, Mingma and Surendra (when he's finished the washing up!) all come into the dining tent and we all crowd round the fire like witches round a cauldron. All sorts of topics of conversation come up, mainly comparing Nepal/Tibet with the UK. However today, horror of horrors, it now turns out that Mingma's brother 'Mingma' (just stick with me!) isn't his brother after all; he's his cousin! Ahh! That explains why they look nothing alike (not to mention why they both had the same name!). Mingma in fact means Tuesday, and refers to the day that said person was born. Phurba is Thursday and Dawa is Monday; all names of other Sherpas. I think that Surendra might means Saturday, but it might be from that famous French phrase uttered so often (je surrender)! Sorry, that's a mean joke.
However, I have a better one!”French rifle for sale; never fired, dropped once”! Ha ha! Sorry, again that's not fair...but I'm sure I can think of some better ones! On a serious note, although today had the first ascents of the mountain (about 15 from our side), two climbers were reported missing.
Day 50 (21st May)
Right, weather was better today, so there was no escaping it. A leg stretch was in order! I was still convinced that I might spend the night at the North Col, but Di was adamant that it was only a leg stretch, and that she would go as far as the North Col and return. I jokingly announced to Aneil, that since Di wasn't going to sleep there, he would have to keep me company instead. There was a nervous laugh from him, and a high spirited mocking one from Mingma and Surendra.
We left early, about 9.30am, and got to the base of the headwall at 10.40am. Di then announced that she was going to head back, as her legs were 'suitably stretched' (Di - lets be honest, I had a complete and utter motivation failure). Oh no, what do I do? Although I wanted to get back and do 'fun things' in ABC, I still thought that a night at the North Col would only do me good. Sensibility jostled briefly with indolence (sorry I mean R+R!), and in the end won. Up the hill I would go!
God, I never thought that I would ever choose the hard work of slogging it up a hill over dossing around. Hang on a minute, that argument doesn't work; I opted to climb Everest, Doh! I suppose I was thinking more in the terms of the desperation of trying to get off games when it was inter-house cross country. N.B. (To all you big house sports captains) 'Just because I'm skinny doesn't mean I can run'. I imagine that in the San, on the morning of a cross-country run, it must have seemed as though the plague had remerged with all the 'unexpectedly dying' coming in! An 'off games chit' was treasured more than a winning lottery ticket, in those circumstances! Anyway, I digress!
So up the hill I went! I took me 2hours 20 mins to reach the top of the fixed ropes; a new personal best!
The often precariousness of the route and my Ipod took the boredom out of it, and at 1pm I collapsed at the top. I wandered over to our tent (unfortunately at the far end of the camp), and lethargically climbed in and started to sort my self out. I tried to radio back to ABC that I had arrived safely, but the radio was playing up. I spent that afternoon melting snow for water and reading Lance Armstrong's autobiography (very inspiring!)
At about 5.30pm, I ate my 'beef stew and dumplings'. Just as I was thinking about battening down the hatches and preparing myself for the night, I heard a tentative 'Jake, hello?' It was Aneil, come to stay the night. Because he hadn't arrived earlier I had assumed that he wasn't going to come up. However now that he was here, great, let the party start! He clambered in and I got some bacon and beans on the go for us to share. That evening was great fun; it felt like a Bronze D of E overnight camping trip (although at 7100m and -20!). We were very childish and chatted till late (8.30pm!) before the warm embrace of exhaustion finally won over and willed us to sleep.
Day 51 (22nd May)
I hadn't slept too badly; relatively restless, but no headache. I think that Aneil had a bit of a headache, and seemed to be tossing and turning all night long. It had obviously been a really cold night as the inside of the tent was coated in ice. Somehow, my watch had reset itself during the night. 'Happy New Year' I said to Aneil! He looked at me with a somewhat pained expression of pure pity. Obviously the altitude had affected his sense of humour.
I couldn't be bothered to stay up here any longer than I needed too, so I started getting my kit on to return to ABC. 'Don't worry I'll catch you up', Aneil said, as he disappeared back down into his sleeping bag. I hopped around a bit trying to get my big boots on, in the same way that one might bounce around whilst trying to take off their trousers with their shoes still on. 'See you in a minute', I said to Aneil. There was a muffled reply from inside the tent.
So, off I trotted, only bothering to clip onto the ropes in the camp to cross the ladder over the 10 foot wide crevasse at the lower end of the camp. I got to the top of the steep section that leads into the camp, ready to clip onto the fixed rope so that I could abseil down. However it was nowhere to be found. It had snowed several inches in the night, and had buried the thin 7mm blue rope. This was rather a predicament. I was certainly not going to try and downclimb the 70 degree (freshly snow covered) slope, especially as I didn't have an ice axe. So, like a pig searching for mushrooms, I started digging around furiously in the snow (although not with my snout like the aforementioned truffle hunter, t'was a tad cold for that!).
Eventually (and not before I had worked up a thin film of perspiration across my forehead) I managed to unearth the line. Giving my end a fierce tug, it ripped up through the snow and finally I could begin my descent. As I rappelled quickly down the headwall, pausing only to change ropes, I met several Sherpas on their early morning load carries. One even had skis attached to his rucksack, which he explained were for one of his clients. I arrived back at ABC about 1.5 hours after I had started, completely exhausted having not had any breakfast, and only a few sips of water. I conveniently ran into Di at the J/G tent (socialising no less!).
We went back to out camp so that we could fill each other in on the recent events on the mountain (gossip). About 15 climbers had summited that morning, mainly from the Chinese team (remeasuring the mountain). It turned out that of the two climbers still missing from the day before; the Slovenian had been found at the second step. The French-Canadian was still nowhere to be seen (he was later found safe and sound returning to the North Col, exhausted.
Dave (J/G) and Julian (Project Himalaya) came over to discuss the events on the mountain as well. After lunch, Tim from the British Karrimor Team came over for chats and gossip. Aneil eventually appeared at about 3.30pm. Apparently he had gone to one of his friends tents at North Col for a social; I reckon that he just had a lie in!
Tim announced to me that he had a question that had been keeping him awake at night; 'how, if I was at University, was I taking 70 days off during exams to climb this hill?'. Well, talk about red rag to a bull! I dutifully filled him in on my 'glorified' history at Bristol, especially the part about them being so disappointed in that my extra-curricular activities seemed to have preference over my studies, and that now I was here, they were my best friends; producing press releases and all!
After several hours (and 4 hot chocolates) Tim left, and as he did so, he quietly whispered that he had one packet of Maryland Choc-chip cookies left and that he would bring some over in a couple of nights. I told him that we still had crackers, Smoked Dutch Edam and Creamy white Stilton hidden away. Upon hearing that (you could see his mouth visibly watering!), he announced that he might be able to bring the cookies over sooner. Simple pleasures!
We got the weather reports, which were incredibly dire and indicated that we might be waiting in ABC for even longer. Upon this, knowing that she would have time to recover afterwards, Di decided that she might go up to the North Col the following morning, probably to stay the night as I had done.
After supper we taught the Sherpas to play 'Old Maid'. Apparently they have the same game in Nepal, but taking 3 of the Jacks out instead of the Queens. It just wouldn't be the same ending up with a nice Knave rather than the 'scabby old bitch' would it!
Day 52 (23rd May)
I awoke this morning to find Di had disappeared. Hopefully she had just had an early start and had gone up the North Col as agreed. Otherwise, she's had enough (with the mountain or me, who knows!) and is currently on her way to Kathmandu, Lhasa, Tesco's, Mexico or anywhere else better than here. If by any chance she has gone to Tesco's, can someone please ask her to get some fresh milk (the powdered stuff has lost its appeal) and some of those really nice Crème Caramels that they do. Oh, and a copy of the Daily Mirror, cause it has a two speed crossword that I can usually complete (with the help of a thesaurus, an encyclopaedia and a couple of high IQ friends).
Can you tell how bored I am yet? Oh wow, someone outside is hitting one rock against another, and it sounds just like somebody knocking in a cricket bat (don't worry girls, ask a boy!)! Ah, the sweet sounds of summer...I close my eyes in a self-indulgently lost way. 'Oh bugger' (as Pooh would say), I'm still on a desolate mountainside, a million miles from the kind of summer and the sound of leather on willow I want! And once again I digress!
Talk about not appreciating someone till they've gone! It's been really lonely here today without my esteemed leader. I've actually had to be proactive in my activities, which, as I'm sure my Bristol flat mates will attest to, I'm not very good at. So, I spent 2 hours writing this (and you thought this kind of quality prose just flowed from my fingers!), spent several hours in the Project Himalaya tent gossiping and then have been to visit my friends at J/G to gossip some more and borrow their Sat phone (so I could get more credit for ours!).
Ran and Ian had just returned from a jolly up the North Col, where they had seen Di. Bugger, that means that she hasn't gone to Tesco's, so I'll have to wait a bit longer for my Crème Caramels! Never mind, at least now I know where she is! Meanwhile, over supper, Aneil was teaching me rude words in Nepalese, which he encouraged me to shout out all over ABC!
So there you have it. Actually, I suppose it doesn't sound really as bad as I make out. Either that or I have an incredible knack of making the most mundane things seem like a R.L. Stevenson adventure. Maybe I should become a Maths teacher and create a new wave of fascinating kids who like more interesting things than throwing bricks though windows. Apologies to Andrew Richard, my housemaster and (I imagine reluctant) maths teacher, who got me through my maths A-level and made me the bored (in mind rather than shoulders) character that I am today! Andrew, just remember what the Great Lobachevski would say... You and any other Tom Lehrer fans will understand! Answers on a postcard please.
Anyway, I think that that concludes today's lesson on how to climb Everest. There will be a short quiz at the end of the trip, so I hope that everyone has been taking notes. Tune in next time for your unmissable hearsay from the hill. Now get back to work/study/flying the plane or feeding the baby/cat/hippo you idle creatures (delete as appropriate)!
All the best from Professor Jake and his beautiful assistant Di!
QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS:
Question: Is there anything that you can do to help prepare for the acclimatisation before you set off? (Mickey Bickford-Smith)
Ans: Yes, there are methods of improving your lung capacity (for a variety of sports, not just climbing). In American Climbing magazines I've seen adverts for all manner of things, from mouth inhalers to special air restrictive tents that you sleep in (at home). You want the pressure decreased rather than increased (last night at 7100m my barometer was at 454mbars, rather than a usual sea level of about 1000mbars). I always wondered if you could practice in a naval dive chamber, and in theory it would work. However, there are so many other factors that you have to get gradually used to as you go up the mountain, such as cold, food etc. It might sound silly, but you do get used to the cold (to an extent), as I found out in the Antarctic. Also, your stomach needs to get used to a change in diet, or you get very ill.
As for whether it would be regarded as cheating, I think that that is a more personal question. I wouldn't have any qualms about it; to me it would just be another form of training. I think that getting to the top of a mountain like this is such an achievement (considering all the factors against you), that you might as well make it as easy as possible. Even when you are acclimatized there is no running around (believe me!) Although things seem to get easier and you tend to be able to travel faster, it is still exhausting. For instance, yesterday when I went up the North Col (400m of very steep climbing on fixed ropes from 6700m to 7100m), it took me 2hrs 20mins, which was about 30mins faster than my previous effort. I was still completely knackered when I arrived at my tent, and it took me about 10 mins just to take my crampons off!
Q: Which of the mountains that you have climbed so far has had the best views; both distance and variation and which would you recommend for any of your friends as first timers? (Mickey B-S)
Ans: Nearly all of the mountains have had incredible surroundings and views (except Kosciusko as it is pretty much flat and there was zero visibility!)Having said that, the environments in which they are found are so different, so it is difficult to compare. I think that for pure 'wow factor' it has to be Vinson in the Antarctic. We summited in fantastic weather, and the fact that you were half way down a back bone of mountains (the Sentinel Range), yet with almost perfectly flat ice as far as you could see either side of you, was incredible. I might have to amend that answer if I summit this one however!
In terms of mountains to climb for the first time, it would probably be Kilimanjaro. In terms of cost (relatively low) and other options for whilst you are out there (Safari, Mt Kenya, Mt Meru, Zanzibar, Vic Falls etc) I think that it offers the most to a first time mountaineer. It is also technically easy, and as long as you are of average fitness, yet the desire and strength of mind to carry on when the going gets tough, then it should pose no problem. It also offers probably the most varied climbing environments found on a single mountain. Here on Everest, you are either walking on shale, or snow. On Kili, you go through rainforest, a rocky moonscape, Scottish heather, volcanic (lava flows), scrambling, almost deserty landscape, and then on your final day, wonderful scree (!) followed by wandering alongside beautiful glaciers.
Everest update 14 - Thursday May 19th
2005
Day 47
Well, we've arrived safely at ABC. One step closer to our Goal.
There is much activity on the Hill, with several teams leaving for their
summit attempts. We have chosen to remain in ABC for the foreseeable future
as our weather predictions don't show a suitably long enough window for
quite a time. It will be interesting to see what happens to these teams
who have left today. The window in the next couple of days looks like
incy wincy and not quite substantial enough for our team.
Anyway, back to the ongoing saga that you've all been waiting for; what have the elite special forces of Team Adventure Peaks been up to since the last update ended in such a cliff-hanger?!
Day 44 cont. (15th May)
No, she hadn't gone to play horseshoes, in fact, she'd only made it as
far as the J/G mess tent where she was doing what she does best; gossiping!
Sorry, what I mean is that I found her deeply involved in incredibly highbrow
and intellectual tête-à-tête with Ran and Mark. Probably
about politics and world affairs; the type of conversational exchange
in which I would be way out of my depth! As I arrived she immediately
stopped the scholarly dialogue (in case I should hear her and use it as
embarrassing ammunition against her), and declared; 'Right, who's coming
down the Tea House for a bevvie!' 'Hurrah!' I exclaimed, 'I could do with
a nice cup of Sherpa Tea'. I think she might have been implying something
with a slightly higher alcohol content, but the destination was the same.
There was actually a remarkable show of enthusiasm to this suggestion
from the J/G team (who the previous day had been too engrossed in a game
of cards; the lazy buggers!), and Ran, Mark and Alex answered this call
to arms. So we then wasted several hours nattering in the tea house (Di
stooped to this inferior form of conversation for my benefit!). So as
Ran was describing to me, in minute detail the logistics involved in his
'7 marathons in 7 days in 7 continents' over a coke and a tea, Di and
the South Africans were chugging back the beers with the Canadian cook
of the British Karrimor Team. Well, at least she was taking this BC chill
out time seriously!
Day 45 (16th May)
So, after 10 days of doing sweet Fanny Adams (as Ran put it!), it was
finally time to dig our legs out of our bags, try and put them on the
right way round, and hope that they would do their job of carrying us
back up the hill after such a long and lackadaisical period of rest. Somehow
our Quads and Calves hadn't completely forgotten how to work, and after
an incredibly generous brunch ('Just a light lunch please Surendra'!),
we hoisted our rucksacks onto our backs and for the third (and hopefully
last) time, and started to wander back up towards Intermediate Camp (IC).
With our headphones in, we were soon both lost in our own little musical
worlds as we meandered our way back up the valley. We soon left the moraine
alongside the Rongbuk glacier, and started to gain height as we forked
off up towards IC on the East Rongbuk.
The trail was much quieter than before, and we encountered only the occasional
and sporadic individual or pairs coming down. Almost exactly 4 hours after
we set out we arrived in IC. Aneil and Kasang (Tundo's brother and our
present 'Tibetan Boy') arrived shortly afterwards, and joy of joys, produced
a brace of cokes! Fantastic, just what we needed to quench our thirst.
Thus followed a 'burping competition' (the bubbles are much more potent
at altitude, I promise'. Di, who at first, was understandably horrified
(she is a lady of course), soon cast her female principals aside, and
joined in, with impressive results! I think even the Tibetans were in
awe of our gastric vocalizations, but we soon stopped when we realized
that we might set off an avalanche! How embarrassing!
We soon had the tents up, and we had a delicious supper of mixed momos
(cheese, tuna or vegetable, a veritable Russian roulette!), chips and
fried eggs. Yummy! With the two of us in the tent together, despite it
starting to snow outside, it soon turned into a sauna. It was in fact
so warm that we had our sleeping bags unzipped and had trouble getting
to sleep!
Day 46 (17th May)
After a fitful nights sleep (albeit a warm night!), we awoke refreshed
and raring to go. Well, as raring as a pair of children reluctantly about
to take an exam! There was nearly an hour of, 'we'll get up in 5 minutes!'
I think that the deciding issue was the fact that both of our bladders
were about to pop! Aneil whipped up a delicious brekkie of (sweet) scrambled
eggs and toast. This was followed by another half hour of delaying tactics,
before we eventually conceded that if we didn't get up, we'd never get
up the mountain! So, after a somewhat leisurely start, we were gone by
10am, naturally being forced to wait for the tent to dry rather than our
own idleness! After 25 minutes we passed the J/G North Col team, who we
had noted, had left over 30 minutes before us! There was a chorus of 'Morning',
'how you doing' etc, as we swept past them, leaving them in a cloud of
dust. A suitably similar analogy might be a tortoise being left in the
cloud of dust of a slightly 'faster' tortoise! It was their first time
up to ABC, so they must be praised for their steady approach. We carried
on up the moraine underneath Changtse, with the rows of towering 50ft
Penitentes to either side.
Aneil caught up with us as we stopped for lunch. Once again, like a magician
pulling a rabbit from a hat, he produced more cans of coke. I would say
“what a chump for carrying them for two days”, but it was
most appreciated. This time we refrained from the uncouth and vulgar behavior
of the previous evening, as Westerners could have come round the corner
at any moment! After a very long and leisurely break we continued up to
ABC. We arrived just short of 4.5 hours after leaving IC. I am ashamed
to say that I had to take two quick breaks in the last 30 minutes as the
previous 10 days lethargy began to get the better of me. Di, as ever,
continued on like a trooper, but she didn't have any hot juice ready for
us when we arrived (the real reason for our stalling!). No, unfortunately
Mingma was nowhere to be seen (he'd gone for a 'jolly' up to the North
Col for the night), and he'd hidden the matches for the stoves! Aneil
meanwhile had been ambushed by some friends, who invited him in for a
cup of tea, so poor Di and I were left all alone, our throats parched
from the long and arduous quest up to ABC, and no hot juice. Honestly,
you just can't get the staff these days! Eventually, when he had finished
catching up on the past weeks gossip, Aneil sauntered over, produced a
box of matches and got some water on the boil. All we needed were the
matches; we could have boiled water ourselves! Anyway, it was good to
be back at ABC, I think that Basecamp lassitude had certainly set in back
in BC, and we'd begun to forget the real reason we were here. At least
back in ABC, with the cold, the snow flurries and the rather miserable
look that seems to be a permanent feature on everyone's faces; the grim
realization of why we were here came flooding back! Lucky that Team Adventure
Peaks had arrived to brighten everyone up again with our good looks and
infectious sense of humour. Let's just hope that that was all that was
infectious about us!
Surendra arrived at about 5.30pm, having come all the way up from BC.
Aneil in the meantime had been getting very fidgety about who was going
to cook us supper (as we didn't know when Surendra would be arriving),
and in the end had resorted to cooking himself. It was a sterling effort;
the dish water soup had a delicious hint of Fairy Liquid in it... No,
I jest, he did a fantastic job of egg fried rice and chips (made all the
more better by finding the secret supply of Soy sauce!). That evening,
he and Surendra were ordered through into the warmth of our dining tent
(out of the frigid wastelands of the Kitchen tent), and we sat around
the gas fire like contented fat cats!
Day 47 (18th May)
I slept really badly last night. No headache, but just endless hours of
tossing and turning trying to get to sleep. I think that it is change
of situation rather than altitude problems. Di on the other hand seemed
to sleep well as usual, much to my envy! This morning we had a couple
of guests; Dave from J/G filling us in on the ABC gossip (and we him on
the BC scandals!), and then our new crazy Brazilian friend Victor, who
was leaving today for his summit attempt. He and another are attempting
it oxygenless, and if that isn't enough of a challenge, the weather is
crap, there are no ropes above 8300m, and all they are taking is a 15m
rope; 'just in case'. Pure unadulterated madness! Very brave, and it will
be amazing if they make it. Let's just hope that these guys have the foresight
to call it a day if it all gets a bit much.
Anyway, as you have now gathered, we are safely in ABC. It looks as though we might be here for a good few days, so we will send another update with all the exciting goings on in ABC in a few days. Needless to say, like the unscrupulous gossip hunters that we are, we will tirelessly hunt down the scandalous tittle-tattle (completely disregarding fact from juicy fiction) to fill you in on. Right, I better go, Di still has to proofread and edit this (I bet you don't get half of the good bits!), and several of my fingers have gone numb. God I love the tender warmth of ABC! I am now going to go and stick my deadened appendages through the grill of the gas fire until Di complains about the smell of burnt flesh.
Bye quiens & loons, Jake & Diddly Di
Day 44 - Update 13 (lets hope it's not unlucky (and gives your computer a virus!), especially considering Friday was Friday the 13th!)
It finally looks as though something's going to happen!
This might just (hopefully) be our last dispatch from BC. Tomorrow we pack our bags and will once again skip merrily back up to ABC. So, in an overly melodramatic way that you have come to expect with these emails...(In the style of General Dwight Eisenhower on the eve of the D-Day landings in his 'Soldiers, Sailors and Airmen' speech)
We stand here now on the eve of the most important adventure in the history of important adventures. The years of rigorous mental and physical training for this one situation are now about to be called into use. We know no fear, we feel no pain. Never have the hopes of so many depended on the actions (and luck) of so few. And as we walk through the valley of the shadow of death, serac to the left of us, crevasse to the right, we will prevail. For we are safe in the knowledge that we are under the watchful eyes of the Almighty. Blah blah blah. God bless the United States of Great Britain and President Blair!
Well, we've got to leave with a bang, haven't we? And I've always wanted to give one of those outrageously corny (God Bless America) speeches, just like in the movies!
You know that it is about time to move to up to ABC when:
a) You've run out of Lemon squash.
b) There's no more eggy bread at breakfast as you've run out of bread.
c) (Most importantly) BC supplies of Double soft quilted velvety loo rolls
have been all used up, and you have to resort to Tibetan sandpaper.
You may or may not know that the weather isn't great at the moment, which is why we kept on delaying our departure to ABC. The Jet stream was late moving in, and so all potential summit windows have been pushed back. However, we are now so bored of BC, and feel as though we are losing fitness by the day, so we are finally making our last journey up to ABC, where we will plan and execute out summit assault from.
So what excitements and adventures have we been getting up to since our last dispatch? Hold onto your seats, and people who are pregnant or have heart conditions read with caution!
Day 40 (11th May)
This morning was windy so we sat inside all day (I told you to hold onto
your seats!) This afternoon was even windier, so we ventured from the
Mess tent even less. In fact today was so boring, that I am having to
pad this diary entry with statements of boredom. Whoever said that only
boring people get bored obviously never spent 10 days in Everest Basecamp
(di - now Jake, obviously it goes without say that my full agenda for
the day prevents me from getting bored, therefore makes me a non boring
person). I looked on the computer for synonyms of 'boredom', and alongside
tedium, monotony, and dullness, I found 'ennui'. What a fantastic word.
I tried to slip it into general conversation today. I didn't manage it
(di - and obviously if you had, I wouldn't have understood what in the
hell you were going on about?). Boring.
Day 41 (12th May)
This afternoon we went down to the British Karrimor team, to see Tim Mosedale,
who is a friend of Di's. In true Tim style, he said 'It's bloody Baltic
in our camp, lets go to the Pub!' Unfortunately there aren't any pubs
for hundreds of miles, so we ambled off to the temporary Tibetan village
at the bottom of BC to the warm of a Tea House. 'Tea Tent' might be a
more appropriate description, but it was warm and comfortable nonetheless.
No sooner than we had ordered our tea and cokes, the rest of Tim's team
came in, 7 bearded mountain men (one of whom bears a fantastic resemblance
to ZZ top), and they started playing dice. After several hours of luke
warm tea and reminiscing, it was time for supper, so we left the warm
dark amniotic safety of the Tea House, and struggled back into the bitter
wind to our camp. What a fantastic way to waste the afternoon; why didn't
we think of this sooner?!
Day 42 (Friday the 13th May)
Wow, Friday the 13th. I have the twilight Zone tune in my head all day!
I'm glad that we're not doing anything today that might possibly be fraught
with misfortune. Or, we might be unlucky enough to do something interesting
today. I live in hope. I have had the most brilliant of brilliant ideas!
When Mingma was up on the mountain, he collected 10 empty oxygen bottles
which he brought back down the mountain. He can sell these bottles for
$'s each for refilling in Kathmandu. In a stroke of what I can only describe
as pure genius, I bought 3 bottles off him. I will take them home, mount
them on nice little wooden stands and try and auction them for Charity
(Children's Wish Foundation). I'll keep one for myself, and it will make
a great souvenir of the mountain. I took them over to the Jagged Globe
team where I spent most of the morning chatting to Ran, and got him, Ian
Parnell and Sibusiso to sign them as well. I don't know where I'll auction
them, but eBay can always be a last resort! In fact I think that I have
started a bit of a trend! Di is planning how she is going to display hers,
and several of the JG team are going to try and get some. This afternoon,
Di, Sibusiso and I went down to Tim's Camp to 'pitch horseshoes'! It's
a great idea; they have set up a horseshoe pitching pitch, and somehow
managed to get hold of some old horseshoes from the Tibetans. A good excuse
to be outside and nothing like a bit of friendly competition. Sibo and
me against Di and Tim. Soon there were horseshoes flying everywhere (some
even in the right direction) as the battle for pride and honour commenced.
The Sherpas all ran and cowered in their tents as we took it in turns
to try to hit a tent pole stuck in the ground 10 metres away. The game
rapidly began to resemble a scene from Beirut or Basra, as the whistle
of metal projectiles and the puffs of dust filled the air. Di and Tim
narrowly beat us (di - ha, we slaughtered you from what I remember) in
the first match 2 games to 1, and then Sibo and I just managed to claw
back some dignity by beating them in a short single game match (di - not
good for guides to beat clients!). Afterwards, with our pitching arms
exhausted and our throats parched after such a strenuous and involving
game, we wandered down to the Tea House for a celebratory drink. The other
excitement of the day was the story of the helicopter. There was a rumour
that several teams up on (or above) the North Col had seen what they thought
was a helicopter flying around the summit and even attempting to land.
Last year a helicopter altitude record was set when a climber was rescued
from just over 7,000m. So the idea that a helicopter was attempting to
land at nearly 9,000m seemed preposterous. However, Stuart, one of the
members of the British Karrimor Team had managed to capture this UFO on
his digital camera, and when we saw the highly enlarged image it did indeed
resemble a chopper. Soon lots of rumours we flying around camp regarding
allsorts of (conspiracy) theories. Di emailed a friend of hers, Karl (di-
pronounced Carrol, in a true Scottish accent having explained to Jake
he she is actually a he - as Billy Connelly once said "it’s
an accent, not a speech impediment"), to see if he could find out
any information on the web and let us know. He got back to the evening
that apparently it was a French Helicopter
and French crew, who were indeed attempting to land on the summit. Apparently
the helicopter has been tested to 11,000m (40,000ft). So BC is now full
of helicopter enthusiasts who are eager to find out more about this 'revolutionary'
(no pun intended) new chopper. It could mean that rescues could be