Skiing in India is an altogether new cultural experience...
The Next Chamonix?
If you’ve not booked your snowsports holiday for next year yet and you fancy skiing some where different then you may want to consider Gulmarg - India’s premier ski resort in Kashmir. The resort is currently trying to attract westerners and take on the likes of Vail and Verbier with its snow conditions, massive ski area, service and accomodation.
At 4,000 metres it is the highest ski area in the world and boasts some of the best views and off piste riding to be found in Asia.
Gulmarg it’s self is an isolated winter village nestled near the much disputed India - Pakistan border. You can leave your Gore tex XCR and Down filled Jackets at the airport, men here all dress in Phirans (thick loose coats) and their preferred mode of transport down the snow is on home made wooden sleds (which if you can’t bring with you, you can always hire for 20p an hour!)
A visit to Gulmarg is like stepping back in time the few shops that exist sell ski clothing from the 70’s, rear entry boots and 210cm straight skis relics of a by gone era of skiing. But once you tire of the entire shopping take the weight off at the only Indian or Chinese takeaway in town satisfy your hunger along with an American style Burger Bar!
The locals are friendly and seem to have a standard greeting to all foreigners ‘where you from?’ they ask, to which you reply ‘England’ and they nod and smile sympathetically and wander off!
There is no escape from the Military presence in the resort on the single track approach road to the village we had a head to head with an armoured military truck, it of course won, but not after much fun pushing our small 4 x 4 out of the ditch that it had managed to drop into partly as a result of the weight of luggage on the roof.
Life carries on around the armoured military personnel and although at first this is quite intimidating you soon get used to it. The soldiers are friendly and are quite happy to pose for pictures.
The Skiing
Armed with a pair of Dynastar Legend 8800 and a pair of Elan M999 we had been lured by the promise of Heli Skiing although on arrival at the resort we soon relaised that due to military restirctions this wasn’t to happen in Gulmarg. It is likely that should you try to take off you would probably be shot down. Heliskiing is available in Manali some distance away.
The only route up the mountain was therefore via the Gondola, the highest in the world, a fact that the locals are quite proud off.
Bought from the French 10 years ago the Gondola became fully operational last year up to 4,000 metres. The ticket system is primitive, no microchips that activate a barrier system here, it is mostly done on trust and a slip of paper.
From the top lift station you get spectacular views of K2, Nanga Parbath & Nunkun. loads of superb powder runs can be accessed, even more if you are prepared to boot pack for a further half an hour or so to the very top of Apharwat peak, from here their is access to a massive unpisted and unpatrolled area offering some great bowls and some fantastic tree skiing. This stuff is suitable for Intermediates.
For the more serious riders, you can head left, past the military base, towards Pakistan where the terrain is more challenging but well worth it, the longest run will take you down to Tangmarg Village from where you can hitch a lift up on the roof of some old truck making regular visits to Gulmarg – though you may have to wait an hour.
The lack of hundreds of other people bustling for the same terrain has got to be one of Gulmargs biggest pluses, you seldom ‘bump’ into another skier or snowboarder. The lack of lift queues is another major plus. The lower slopes are served by 3 pomas and here you can find bigger lift queues at their busiest 12 deep. The queuing system is possibly unlike anywhere else in the world – women stand in one queue and men in another, the only one that actually moves is the men’s queue women are left waiting and waiting, the men will go up ski and come back down rejoin the queue and so on whilst the women continue to wait.
In Summary the skiing was great, a big expanse of space to explore, the snow conditions weren’t at their best when we were there so it is hard to justify the 8 hour flight, however the mixture of Australians, New Zealanders, Americans who have made Gulmarg their adopted home for the season (December through to March) assured us that once we had left the snow would come and there would be smiles all round.
Where to Stay.
Hotels are in short supply and of a standard that falls short of Western expectations.
The best hotel was the 3 star Highland Resort where we stayed although you may be surprised at how basic it is if you are used to Aspen or St Moritz. There are two other hotels – The Hotel Pine Palace & The Hotel Hilltop.
Fast Facts
Gulmarg ski resort is located in India’s northwestern corner, in the state of Jammu and Kashmir, 35 miles from the state capital of Srinagar.
Gulmarg ski resort is in the southwestern Himalayas and it lies at an elevation of 8858 feet in the shadow of Apharwat Mountain. It is served by three short ski lifts and a cable car.
Skiing ranges from beginner to extreme off-powder skiing.
Indians will pay to visit Gulmarg simply to ‘see the snow’ so don’t be surprised if you see individuals walking around in suits playing in the snow – it is very much a novelty.
Getting there from the UK
fly to Delhi 8 hours with Virgin
Delhi to Srinigar – 1 Hour (approx £150)
Transfer to Gulmarg 1 Hour
Height: 2,730 Metres
Ski Lifts:
3 Pomas
1 Gondola
Watch out for;
Your insurance, if like ours, probably won’t cover you for War Zones as defined by the FCO. You can try BMC who reportedly offer a more comprehensive cover.
The next 06/07 Warren Miller film – the Warren Miller team were out there shooting days before we visited and we eagerly anticipate their next offering.
Alcohol - Gulmarg is in the state of Jammu and Kashmir, a Muslim state, so alcohol is technically illegal though it is available at a few hotels in town for about 300 RUPEES (about £3.50)
Electricity – In short supply in the mountains and has a tendency to switch of around 8.00pm with intermittent surges throughout the evening
For more info here are a few sites;
www.warrenmiller.com - Video
www.jktourism.org
www.fco.gov.uk
www.skihimalaya.com
Finally thanks to Berghaus, Elan, Motorola, Lifesystems, Helly Hansen & Back Country Access for supplying the Transceivers!
All pictures reproduced by kind permission of Sphinx Media
©Sphinx Media
